SPANISH SELECTION BY OLE IMPORTS

2. Pazo San Mauro.

2003 Albariño Rías Baixas ($20):
Pink grapefruit and white pepper aromas are lifted by a floral element; precise for 2003. Dusty, intense and dry but nicely ripe, with flavors of pink grapefruit and stones. Boasts very good thrust for the vintage, finishing with a kick of extract and very good palate-dusting persistence. 89.

2001 San Amaro Rías Baixas ($43; albariño with a bit of loreiro): Canned peach on the fiase, with a smoky, saline quality that reminded me of sake. Musky and saline in the mouth, with a gingery sweetness of flavor. Rather easygoing wine that could use more verve and grip. 87. (Olé Imports, New Rochelle, NY)

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